Southern Forests and Ranges

We camped near Pemberton in a forested campsite on the Warren River with a huge kitchen. We had it to ourselves on the first night and we were very thankful as it poured with rain as we cooked dinner. We used it as a base to explore the Karri forests in the Pemberton area. We visited the Gloucester tree and it was too windy to climb but that didn’t worry us as the height I got off the ground for the photo was quite enough.

We had some bird encounters with a very tame kookaburra at camp and a grey shrike-thrush that liked itself in our car window.

We visited Beedelup falls and a walk through tree before heading to the eerie Goblin Swamp. This is seriously under publicised as it had one mention on all of the brochures we had and no pictures. Luckily I had seen a picture in a magaine article and wanted to go there. It has amazingly contorted paperbark trees growing in a swamp and my pictures do not do it justice.

We moved on to Walpole and this was a base for exploring the tingle trees – another eucalypt – not as tall as the karri but much wider as they form enormous buttresses. I went on the treetop walk which is similar to the Otway Fly. The rivers were brown with tannin as in Tasmania and forming natural foam as they cascaded down falls into large pools. We also climbed Mt Frankland, another graite boulder but much mossier than our previous ones in the wheat belt. It is also used as a fire watch tower in summer, as are the climbing trees.

Stirling Range is a highlight of the south coast and after turning down the poky NP campsite, we based ourselves at the private Mt Trio campsite which was lovely and even had a paid, guided tour for orchids. We climbed Mt Trio where the track went straight up the side of the hill and then Bluff Knoll which was not quite as steep. Finally a scenic drive through the heart of the range.

The Porongurups are the little brother of the Stirling Range but with their own charm. We only did the one walk up Castle Rock which was a lovely gentle gradient. At the top a lot of effort and money has gone into building a platform on top of the rock accessed by some rock scrambling with the help of aids and then up a ladder. It made for a fantastic experience and view.

Karijini Part Two

We’d saved the best until last though we didn’t realize that. Weano and Hancock Gorge are both Class 5 and both end in stunning pools deep down in the gorges. We actually went to both twice as Ray had trouble in Hancock Gorge with a pool that I climbed around. We had accidentally booked an extra day camping so decided to head back and give him a chance to swim through. He ended up walking along the edge of the pool and slipping chest deep at one stage. Luckily we had put his camera in a dry bag and he got through safely. The second day had cloud and we went to each gorge in a different order so it gave us different lighting conditions.

First we looked from above at the lookout where four gorges came together.

Here is Weano Gorge on the two trips.

Hancock Gorge gave us quite different lighting on the second trip. The last bit of the walk is called the Spider Walk though we, like most people just walked through the water. However two people came through who were determined to do the whole walk without getting their feet wet and succeeded easily.

We headed to Mt Bruce, the 2nd highest mountain in WA. We planned just to climb to the halfway lookout and we think that is what we did. It was easy walking and got much steeper after that. It gave a good view of the surrounding countryside and down into a mine that had been excised from the National Park. We also got a bird’s eye view of one of the kilometre long trains.

Our final stop was Hammersley Gorge where I managed to drown my camera by misreading a map, swimming where I didn’t need to and trusting a dry bag.

Karijini Part One

Our introduction to Karijini was a free camp just up from the Auski roadhouse at the Albert Togolini (an engineer? on the making of the new road to Newman) Rest Area. A track up the ridge had numerous camping spots and most of them were filled every night. The bonus was the fantastic views down to Munjina East gorge and the hills around. People who couldn’t get into the campgrounds also used it as a base.

We had booked our sites a week previously as we had been warned. We set up in Dales campground nice and early giving us the whole day to explore. We walked to Dales gorge and took the walk along the rim before descending to Circular Pool. This is a lovely pool with water dripping down a green wall into the pool but being shaded no-one was tempted to swim. We continued along the gorge with a couple of stream crossings before arriving at Fortescue Falls. The stepped rocks encourage everyone to sit and enjoy the view. Fern Pool was the last spot in Dales Gorge with a pretty little waterfall.

The next day saw us at Kalamina Gorge beginning with a waterfall and then following on down as the cliffs got steeper and the gorge narrowed We finished at a large pool with an arch in the rock.

We moved across to the Karjini Eco Retreat as it was better placed for the rest of the gorges. We walked to Joffre Gorge just behind the camp where we got our first taste of Class 5 walking – all the previous walks had been classified Class 4. It was only the last climb down to the bottom of the falls that was tricky. I found it fine until the last step which I had to jump down so I was worried about getting back up it. I quickly took photos and caught up to a group that was leaving. A fellow came and give me a hand, practically dragging me up the step. For me that was the hardest bit in all the gorges.

Knox Gorge began with rough steps down a loose, gravel path that we took very carefully. Once at the bottom it was easy walking down the rock shelves except where we once took to the water to skirt a tricky bit. The end came when the water descended down a steep, narrow chute to join Red Gorge.

 

 

Across the Strait – Tasmania Part 2

We headed out for a night at Cape Pillar to photograph the amazing cliffs in the best light. The afternoon light lived up to expectations but the sunrise was overcast.

Off to the west coast where we found two new campsites – Trial Harbour, a delightful little site on the coast with space for a few campers and Lake Mackintosh with no facilities but a superb outlook. This is not our car and van in the picture – these people got there first and snagged the perfect viewpoint.

We took advantage of the clear weather on the notorious west to climb Mt Farrell behind Tullah with the little jewel of Lake Herbert nestled into the side. With Lakes Mackintosh and Rosebery surrounding the mountain we had wrap around scenery.

A final stop at Cradle Mountain included a day trip to Twisted Lakes via Hanson Peak, a rugged little climb where a chain is provided to help you to haul yourself up. We elected to return via Lake Hanson and not downclimb the chain.

Across the Strait – Tasmania

We took our annual trip to Tasmania and had our usual variety of experiences. Being summer the waterfalls were not expected to be flowing well but Tasmania seems to have had more rain and we found them impressive. We visited two falls in the Meander Valley – Shower Cave and Cleft Rock falls and Nelson and Montezuma falls on the west coast. We also walked to the falls at Cradle Mountain.

 

We crossed over the central plateau on our way to visit the Walls of Jerusalem. The fires came to the very edge of the villages up there but only one building was lost. With all the wilderness areas being closed because of the danger of fires everyone was clustered at the Walls but we didn’t feel it was overcrowded. We stayed at Wild Dog creek and visited the Pool of Bethesda, a great mirror for the West Wall. A climb up to Solomon’s Throne gave us the grand view back over the valley and the surrounding wilderness.

We settled down at Dixon’s Kingdom Hut before taking a trip out to Mt Jerusalem. An early exit from the Walls gave us time to visit Devil’s Gullet which was literally a blast. A night on the Mersey River and a visit to Honeycomb Cave, a fun place we discovered out of Mole Creek, rounded out the trip.

Walking to The Labyrinth

IMG_56907 IMG_3136While we were in Tasmania we joined with two of our children to revisit the Labyrinth, a trip we had done previously with all the family in 2005. We had limited time so decided to walk into Pine Valley Hut and do day walks from there. Ray and I walked in to Echo Point Hut carrying all the food because the boat was too expensive with only two of us on the afternoon run. As usual it was harder than we remembered but that was because of heavy packs and September snow that had knocked over many trees. We had to go over, under and around them until we finally arrived at the hut in its unique setting,  hidden in the trees but opening to a lake view.

We went on to Narcissus Hut and then Pine Valley, passing a very still snake that could well have been dead except it was gone on the way out. We reminisced about our first trip in when many of the rivers were crossed on logs rather than bridges. The logs are still there but no longer used. Our children finally caught up with us after they set off a day and a half after us.

We visited Cephissus Falls and climbed to the Acropolis plateau in the afternoon. The snow detered us from climbing to the top.

The next day was a picture perfect day to climb to the Labyrinth. The track no longer went through the bog our friend was caught in years ago but it still had the same big steps near the plateau that took an effort to get up with a full pack. We wandered on to Lake Elysia and enjoyed the vistas of snow dappled mountains. We missed out on the sunset views over the mountains as seen from our camp in 2005. We revisited the falls on the way out.

We headed on out the next day, Ray and I taking the boat after Jessica and Shaun had walked all the way out the previous day.

The weather was too good to waste so Ray and I  completed the circuit walk to Mt Rufus and discovered what we’d missed out on all these years. It was well worth the big effort.

Jatbula Trail

I would highly recommend any bushwalkers persist through the booking woes and walk the Jatbula Trail. Every campsite is paradise. It has been on my wish list for a long time and when we knew we were heading up the centre I tried to book. Only 15 walkers are allowed to depart each day and when I tried in April it was full until September. When I looked at the websites of the guided walks I found they only had one or two people booked when they had up to eight spaces. There seems to be an unfair advantage for the guided companies as against individual walkers, especially ones who don’t jump on when bookings open. However they have devised a fallback system where you put your name on a reserve list and they let you know when there are vacancies. We were pleased to be offered spaces when we had been on the road for a couple of weeks. It meant we had to leave Alice Springs sooner than we would have otherwise but we didn’t want to miss out.

We caught the boat across the Katherine River early on the morning of June 6 and pushed our way through the tall spear grass. When we were unsure of the route we looked for the trusty blue triangles and we needed to search a few times in the trip. The Northern Rockhole was the first attraction but we were advised not to swim as they weren’t 99.5% sure it was free of crocodiles. We then had the biggest climb of the whole trip as we ascended to the escarpment but it was done very gently on a four wheel drive track. Soon we were at camp where we quickly met the other walkers as we set up tents and then made for the water. Pools above and below the Biddlecombe Cascades were suitable and refreshing. Another couple of walkers arrived in camp late having left at 1.00pm and walking in the heat of the day after taking up a vacancy at very short notice. The eating of dinner with a view was popular.

Due to temperatures in the high 20’s to low 30’s we were advised to start early so we were up before the sun and walking by 7 each day which meant we were in camp by lunchtime. The 2nd day meandered amongst the rocks and we spotted some of the rock art. Another pool was admired but we waited to camp for our swim. We had to cross the wide Crystal creek to see the impressive falls and used it as a rehearsal for the next day with packs. Luckily an easier crossing place was found and one of our new friends helped us across. We all bonded over shared stories and experiences.

More easy walking across the plateau dodging termite mounds and following blue triangles. A highlight of the walk is to visit the Amphitheatre, an enclosed gorge with rock paintings. It was made easy with a staircase leading us down. A view across to 17 Mile Ck Falls and we knew that camp was near. We spent the afternoon exploring up and down the creek and invading the Gecko (guided group) camp. We had the best views over the falls and down the valley watching the sun set and the full moon rising.

The next day was the big 17km day and we were all up super early with some of us leaving by torchlight. The problem with that is we found ourselves following the triangles to the helipad. Clouds had come over in the night and provided a glorious sunrise. They also hung around and blocked the sun making for a much cooler day. We enjoyed the walking as we left the plateau and walked through greener countryside as we approached Edith River. We were surprised when we arrived at the crossing at 10.30. Some had an early lunch and we continued on downstream. We finished walking through boggy grass but it was only half way up the boots and never bottomless holes like Tasmania. We had to cross the river above Sandy Pool on a rock bar which quickly became notorious claiming three of the walkers slipping while crossing. A huge pool beckoned for swimming while the rock pools at the crossing were also popular.

Our group that started as five groups of walkers and had become a group of 11 was starting to break up the next day as two had to leave and miss the last camp. More grass, scrub and bogs led us to Sweetwater Pool, another huge pool by rocks. We had to share it with day walkers and people who had walked in to stay the night. We were farewelled with an amazing sunset and then a very easy last day before final goodbyes at Edith Falls.

Light to Light

When I heard the bushwalking club was walking the Light to Light track in Ben Boyd NP as day walks I knew we had to join them. Walking with a day pack is so much more enjoyable than a full pack if there is a choice. We set off for the long drive to the coast taking a new route for us through the small town of Dalgety located on the Snowy River. The autumn colours of the poplars over the dammed river had us breaking our journey. Another stop to enjoy the lookout over Disaster Bay and we pulled in to camp at Bittangabee Bay in time to set up and look around before dark.

The night brought a thunderstorm but luckily it was all out at sea. We dropped off cars ready for the end of the walk before heading to Boyd’s Tower at the beginning. The red cliffs contrasted with the blue waters as we meandered along the cliff path, stopping often to enjoy the views. We crossed a rocky bay before climbing up to a grassy headland that was once a farm. It enabled great views in both directions and down to the sandy beach below, an excellent campsite but water needed to be carried from Saltwater Creek. A stretch along the rocky shelf above the cliffs added to the everchanging environment that the track passed through. We needed the help of locals to find the arch made by the collapse of a sea cave before completing our day’s walk at Saltwater Creek.

A cool, clear night meant clear skies for the sun to light up the cliffs after rising.

We began the second day at the southern end of the walk and visited Green Cape lighthouse. It was too early for a tour so we set off across the heathland. It had been burnt in past years and was a mass of flowers which slowed the walk down as we admired and took photographs. We took a side trip to Pulpit Rock before heading through more heathland on the way to Bittagabee Bay where we could stop for a morning cuppa. The track continued around the bay before emerging onto the cliffs again. A spell through the forest had us admiring fungi and Hegarty Bay would have been a delightful overnight stop. All too soon we were back at Saltwater Creek and heading home the next day before the rain.

Off to the Pigsty

What a name for a place that we found quite delightful! Though I must admit reading about other peoples walks to this area the weather is not always as good as we had it – though the walkers after us had it even better.

We were walking in to the Southern Ranges in Tasmania and aiming for Pigsty Ponds. We had a warm up walk on Mt Wellington first, completing a circuit from Ferntree via the Organ Pipes and returning via O’Grady Falls. The forecast was looking more promising than it had been for the rest of our time in Tasmania so we decided to head off on the walk. After reading the track notes we decided to turn it into a 5 day walk rather than push in in one day. As we climbed Marble Hill on the first day we decided that was a good decision. The track heads straight up the hill side and luckily was well marked with tape as we were a bit bamboozled at times. We finally made the top of the hill and enjoyed the next flat bit along the ridge before it was once again straight up a hillside. We passed a dry campsite in the trees before climbing on to Moonlight Ridge where a fire had killed off the scrub and left sharp, pointed sticks to catch unwary legs. We reached our destination on Moonlight creek and found the only dry camp site in a bog surrounded by dead trees. They did look good in the late light.

Next morning we climbed up Hill One from where we could start to really appreciate the mountains around. First we had to traverse a garden of cushion plants that Parks had put stepping stones across – it wouldn’t look out of place in a Japanese garden. We later met the ranger in charge and he said they hadn’t been trying to make it beautiful, just protect the vegetation. Hill Two gave us a muddy ditch guarded by prickly scoparia and we realised we should have brought gaiters. Once we were through that and up onto Hills Three and Four the views were just fantastic under blue skies. We looked across to Federation Peak, ahead to Precipitous Bluff and not be outdone – the nearby Hippo. We were passed by a walker who had left that morning and would easily keep up with Chapman’s fast times in his guide book (whereas we were slower than his slow times!) After lunch was taken sheltering between rocks from the relentless wind but overlooking the impressive scenery, we headed down to Pigsty Ponds. The whole area was one giant soak so you need a tent with a good floor but we managed to get an almost dry site situated between two ponds and mostly sheltered from the wind. From our campsite we admired the changing light as the sun lit up the Cockscomb (jagged tail end of La Perouse) and surroundings.

The weather was quite different the next day with overcast skies but not too bad to put us off climbing La Perouse. We followed the closely spaced cairns to the top where we were pushed to the top by gale force winds and cloud obscured the views. We caught our breath behind the huge not quite on the summit cairn before breaks in the cloud had us making for the edge to enjoy glimpses of the coast. We didn’t linger and pushed back across the rocky summit using the now fortuitously spaced cairns to find the route back down and escape the blasting winds. Pindars Peak peeped out from the cloud and made us think we would perhaps need to return. A side trip down to Reservoir Lakes showed alternative sheltered campsites.

The sun came out to farewell us as we headed back over the now familiar route. It didn’t seem nearly as hard on the way out as we knew all the worst bits. We gathered water at Bullfrog Tarns to ensure we could camp in the forest where it was dry underfoot for a change. As we headed out on the Saturday we were astounded by the number of people coming in. They had all studied the forecast and knew they were in for something special – blue skies and  little wind in the notorious Southern Ranges.

Return to Bruny

Our now annual trip to Tasmania began with the trip on the Spirit of Tasmania – in a cabin this time as we feel we are past using the recliners for the overnight trip. We headed through the Central Highlands with our usual stop at Liffey Falls, our favourite waterfall in Tasmania. We also scrambled up the scree at Quamby Bluff for a hard climb but little reward due to cloud cover.

We timed our visit to Hobart with the bi-annual Wooden Boat Festival though it was entirely unintentional. The handiwork is amazing and the boats seem too beautiful to put in the water. The sail past was a great display of sail.

The weather was against our plans for walks in the mountains so we retreated to the much more pleasant climate of Bruny Island to complete some of the walks we had missed last time. We began at Cloudy Bay with a walk to East Cloudy Head where we found we could have easily driven along the beach to the very nice Cosy Corner camping are instead of making do with the more accessible Pines. The walk gave views back on Cloudy Bay but unfortunately not the impressive cliffs of the headland. We then moved to the lovely camp at Jetty Beach where a new water tank has been added. We visited the lighthouse where I took the tour to the top between showers and appreciated the magnificent views. We walked the Labillardiere Peninsula the next day, an easy walk showing the contrasting sides of the peninsula.

We headed for Adventure Bay where we revisited the best views of Fluted Cape.  I took the Bruny Island cruise while Ray went to set up camp at the Neck. The views of the cliffs from sea level were even more dramatic and many more features were revealed. We spotted caves, zoomed between rock monuments and were wet by spray from an undersea spout. At the Friars we watched the fur seals basking in the sun and frolicking in the water while a pod of dolphins joined us for part of the trip back.

The Neck campground gives views from both sides of the isthmus and turned on a spectacular sunrise. We returned to Hobart via pretty Snug Falls.